Guest Blog – Lazaro Ruda

September 1st, 2010

Note from editor: This is a guest blog post by Lazaro Ruda. We’re publishing it here, un-edited.

Nauticam NA-7D Canon 7D Housing

Nauticam NA-7D Housing

Nauticam NA-7D Housing

In this ever changing world of electronics, keeping up with the latest camera gear can be difficult. “It’s the cook not the pan” is the adage that has kept me from upgrading from my five year old Canon 20D in a Subal housing. If the shape of the shutter button is not permanently engraved in my finger there’s still more to learn about the camera system.

Image by Lazaro Ruda

Image by Lazaro Ruda

So it was with great reluctancy that I accepted an offer from Ryan at Reef Photo and Video (http://www.reefphotovideo.com/) to try out a Canon 7D camera inside the much talked about Nauticam NA-7D housing. While I had heard nothing but great things about both the camera and the housing there was a pleasant degree of comfort I had acquired over the years of using my Canon 20D.

 

Alas, I was up against the godfather of underwater camera toys and Ryan “made me an offer I couldn’t refuse.” Giving me a couple of weeks to trial test the whole setup in my home waters of Palm Beach, Florida gave me the opportunity to put this setup through its paces before I would decide whether it would replace my trusty Canon 20D setup on my maiden voyage to Indonesia.

Nauticam 7D and Subal 20D housings. Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Nauticam 7D and Subal 20D housings. Image by Lazaro Ruda.

 

My Initial Impression

 

Pouring over the inner workings of the Nauticam housing there is no question it is an engineering marvel of levers and gears that make its ergonomics one of its most impressive features. Most of the camera’s controls are within easy reach without the need to remove your hands off the housing’s handles. The controls on the top of the camera are the only ones that require a little stretching, but if there’s a control such as ISO or flash exposure compensation that is quickly needed this can be easily accessed via the Quick control button on the back of the camera.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

There are buttons on the housing for every single control except for the RAW/JPEG, depth of field preview, LCD panel illumination, and the lens release button (Update: the lens release button has been added in their latest revision of the housing). Many important buttons have been relocated to within easy reach from the handles. The all important AF start button (AF-ON) is available via a thumb-controlled lever. Right below it is the video Start / Stop button which is also activated via a lever. Moving this control, located on the center top of the Canon 7D camera, to the side of the housing means there is less chances of camera shake when starting or stopping a video recording.

 

Buttons are located on the top right of the housing for the Canon’s metering mode / white balance selection, AF mode / drive mode selection, ISO speed setting / flash exposure compensation, and the multi-function (M-Fn) button.

Nauticam has three piano keys located at the right rear of the housing which control the AF point selection / magnify, AE lock button / Index / Reduce button, and the setting button located on the center of the quick control dial on the Canon 7D. The Live View shooting / Movie shooting switch is easily controlled by a two position lever on the top right of the housing. This lever will reset itself to match the setting of the camera’s when initially activated.
Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

The dial on the left hand side of the housing controls zoom functionality on the lens. Its longer gear ratio allows for minute adjustment to the full zoom range. A mode change dial is located on the upper left hand corner with a small viewing window. When using this dial I prefer to view the information on the rear display than peering through the small viewing window.

 

Three accessory ports are located throughout the housing. Two on either top side of the housing — one of which can be used for installing a wired bulkhead for your strobe and the other for the optional hydrophone. The third accessory port located on the left center of the housing can be used for installing a remote switch port and other DIY possibilities. Hopefully a 90 degree mini-HDMI cable will be available at some point for the addition of a larger external monitor. Two fiber optic ports are located at the center front of the housing.

 

The all important shutter and aperture controls are conveniently placed within reach of the thumb and middle finger of your right hand. After input from previous Nauticam housing owners the rubber knobs for these controls have gone through several revisions. The ones on the housing I used are a deeply grooved, no-slip design.

 

An ingenious yet simply designed set of buttons are arranged in a pie-shaped pattern around the multi-controller button on the center rear of the housing. Quick access to this button means you can easily navigate throughout an image that has been magnified on the rear LCD. Using a combination of buttons you can even navigate diagonally. Some sources say this button was designed on a paper napkin over dinner one night. It is nice to finally have access to this functionality after so many years without it.

 

The off / on switch is located at the top left corner. This switch can reset itself in case it did not match up with the camera’s. Last, but certainly not least, is the shutter button on the camera. Having used the Subal’s smooth shutter button release button for years I was surprised to see how much I enjoyed the slightly less springy yet sensitive shutter button of the Nauticam — half press was easily attainable.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

The use of the Canon 7D onboard popup flash for triggering external strobes optically meant the design of the housing was only slightly taller than the Subal housing for my Canon 20D. The weight of the housing, sans any port, is approximately 6.5 lbs — 1.5 lbs over that of the Subal 20D housing.

 

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

The build of the housing is an important factor for me. As a dive guide I can quickly put a lot of miles on a housing. Doing giant strides with the housing in-hand, handling the rigors of bumpy seas, and silty conditions are of the norm. Milled out of a block of aluminum and anodized in black there is no question this housing, like my Subal, was built to last. With an aluminum lip around the inside edge of the housing, putting the two halves together is almost foolproof. Three latches hold the two halves of the housing. An ingenious lock button under each latch keeps the latches from accidentally opening.

 

Unlike my Subal housing, a very important item has been added to the Nauticam housing — a set of sacrificial zincs. These inexpensive zincs can help save the metal housing from pitting due to electrolysis between dissimilar metals. On my Subal 20D this turned out to be an issue especially around the locking latches because it lacked this item.

 

Installing the camera into the housing is simple with its tray system. Simply slide and lock a lever to secure the camera. Access to the compact flash card is possible with the camera installed in the housing’s tray. Changing batteries in the camera requires sliding the camera off the tray, though. A large domed flashing light and screeching sound indicates that the leak detector has been activated by the intrusion of water. A welcome addition was the fact there was enough space to leave the rubber eyepiece on the Canon 7D. Doing so on my Subal 20D would certainly cause a flood.

 

Another of the Nauticam’s big draw aside from its ergonomics is the number of port adapters available for it. It wasn’t long ago that once you purchased one particular brand of underwater housing any upgrades were going to be to the same maker unless you wanted to purchase all new wide angle and macro ports. This is no longer the case and Nauticam has set the trend by offering adapters that will allow Subal, Aquatica, Sea & Sea, Seacam, Nexus, and Ikelite ports to fit on the Nauticam housing. Using the Subal adapter on the Nauticam housing I was able to use all my different macro and wide angle ports without any problems (Update: a problem using the Subal fisheye dome without the use of an extension and Inon’s fiber optic cables has been resolved by using Nauticam’s own set of fiber optic cables).

 

Nauticam’s custom port locking system is simple and secure. Ports are popped into place without the need to push and twist the port avoiding the possibility of an o-ring dislodging itself. An external locking lever locks the port and keeps it from coming lose.

 

My only apprehension about the housing was the lack of a top window where I could easily observe the camera’s settings and properly meter while drifting down the reef. As it turns out many housing makers have followed suit with the newer cameras. This lack of a window is due to the complexity of the gearing in that corner of the housing. Viewing the large LCD screen on the back of the camera was almost as simple although using an enlarging viewfinder means having to hold the setup a little high to see the top settings buried just below the viewfinder’s underside.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

My first dives

 

With little knowledge of the inner workings of the Canon 7D I poured over the manual over night and by the next morning I was underwater shooting away. With so much functionality available to me I felt a bit overwhelmed at first, especially switching from stills to video, but I soon got into the rhythm of things.

 

Peering my eye through the Inon 45 degree viewfinder that Ryan recommended for shooting macro I was soon in visual heaven. How I could have survived all these years without the use of an enlarging viewfinder, even with my excellent vision, was beyond me? The image on the large screen, even while displaying the histogram, was leaps and bounds ahead of my Canon 20D. Notable to mention is the fact that switching between the Inon 45 degree viewfinder and the stock Nauticam eyepiece took only seconds. This is a nice feature if you’re going to be shooting a lot of video and do not want the magnifying viewfinder in the way.

 

Attached to the Nauticam housing was their Subal port adapter along with a four inch DP-64B Subal dome port which has worked really well for me with the Tokina 10-17mm and Nauticam’s custom gear — vignetting just slightly at 10mm due to the shade (a problem with using that specific dome port), but showing no distortion at the edges. A better option for those wanting to use a small port is to look into the Zen DP-100 dome port (http://www.zenunderwater.com).

 

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Cramming the Inon Z-240 strobes close to the dome I approached some yellow cup corals and fired my first shot. It was love at first sight! The large LCD screen made reviewing my shots a cinch. This camera setup almost made me look as though I knew what I was doing.

 

Close focus wide angle photos was the flavor of the day and much to my surprise the TTL functionality appeared to nail the exposure every time with the Inon Z-240 strobes. Adjusting the flash exposure compensation was sometimes needed. Waiting on the camera’s onboard flash to recycle was occasionally a problem, but only because I was using the TTL functionality. If I preferred to have the camera’s onboard strobe keep up with a fast-paced shooting style all that is necessary was to switch the onboard flash mode on the Canon 7D to manual and set the flash output to 1/128 (all via the Flash Control menu).

 

This camera setup’s additional weight was quite apparent underwater especially compared to my Subal Canon 20D setup which is neutral, or close to it, with most lenses except the 100mm macro. This extra weight did come in handy when shooting video in a current and allowed for steadier handheld shots.

 

As the week progressed the use of the camera quickly became easier. Switching from shooting photos to videos was quick and easy thanks to the easy access levers and Canon’s Camera User Settings (C1,C2,C3) on the mode dial. The housing’s ease of use made my next encounter an important aspect.

American alligator in salt water. Image by Lazaro Ruda.

American alligator in salt water. Image by Lazaro Ruda.

On one of my dives on the reefs in Palm Beach, Florida I came across a fresh water alligator sitting in the sand in sixty feet of water near the reef. With the Nauticam in-hand I took a couple of shots and with the video capabilities easily available to me I quickly switched over and captured some video so others wouldn’t believe I had just Photoshopped an alligator on the reef.

 


 

Putting the setup through a number of dives on both the reef and on Palm Beach’s famous Phil Foster Park muck dive convinced me this camera was ready for Indonesia. How sure was I? I purchased my own Canon 7D camera so I would have two cameras available to me in Indonesia. I was already sold on this setup.

 

Before leaving for Indonesia I made one modification to the housing. Having been accustomed to the comfortable hand strap on my Subal housing, I attached the Subal strap to the Nauticam housing using a pair of tie-wraps. Handholding the Nauticam underwater with one hand while shooting was now an easier task.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Bound for Indonesia

 

With all my gear neatly packed in two 15 lbs. carry-on sized Polar Bear coolers (http://www.polarbearcoolers.com/) my complete setup went with me on every step of the way on its way to the Lembeh Straits. Thankfully my girlfriend was generous enough to carry one of the bags as her carry-on and we survived on bare essentials through the long plane ride.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

The Nauticam housing was all setup with two Inon Z-240 strobes attached to the ball mounts located on the top of the housing. On the second set of ball mounts located on the handles I attached a Fisheye FixLED500 and FixLED1000 light that would serve as my video lights. The whole setup was compact enough, albeit heavy, to fit inside the carry-on sized Polar Bear cooler.

 

As the two weeks in Indonesia progressed I found myself more and more comfortable with the Nauticam housing. So much so that I rarely had to take my eye off the viewfinder to make camera adjustments and I could change to shooting video within a couple of seconds. This was most notable when switching to different AF area selection modes.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

After going through a couple of revisions, I can honestly say that the latest Nauticam NA-7D housing is not lacking or troublesome in any way. Some early issues were quickly revised and the housing redone (something I have rarely seen any other manufacturer do).

A couple noted issues include:

 

Working the housing’s latches is a bit cumbersome in comparison to the twist locks on my Subal. It is not difficult to catch your fingers in between the latches and the handles of the housing. Taking the latches apart to clean out the track where the underlying latch lock is located is sometimes necessary when diving in silty conditions as any sand can keep these locks from functioning correctly. This is a simple 5 minute fix by removing two screws (be careful not to lose the spring when disassembling and reassembling the latch! This spring is under tension under the latch.)


 

When using the Canon 100mm lens I had to be extremely cautious that the manual / auto focus or the focus limit buttons on the lens aren’t accidentally tripped when installing the camera in the housing. This has been a problem even with my Subal housing. These two buttons are, in my opinion, useless on this lens and if you want to avoid any problems it might be best to carefully glue them in place or shave them down.


 

The handles on the housing have some spring to them, in part because they were mounting points for strobes or light, but at no time did this cause any issues.


Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Even with its couple of quirks I still feel this housing compliments the use of the Canon 7D for underwater photography nicely. There is no question this housing was designed with the input of an underwater photographer. The ease with which it makes the controls on the camera possible is worth its weight in gold. Fumbling with camera controls when an alligator is staring you down and giving you a split second to react before fleeing is a very important aspect of an underwater camera housing’s design.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Just as important is upgradeability. The underwater photography realm is riddled with expenses. It is good to see a manufacturer who has had the forethought to make adapters that will make numerous ports from different manufacturers useable with their housings even if it means losing out on the sale of one of their ports. These kinds of innovations are what make customers flock to their products and I am almost certain that Nauticam’s future in the underwater camera world is sure to be fruitful.

Return of the 20D

 

After a couple of glorious weeks of trying out the Nauticam NA-7D housing I had to reluctantly return the equipment back to Ryan at Reef Photo and Video. The godfather of underwater toys had unequivocally made another future sale with his ingenious marketing technique. Perhaps his marketing technique could be applied to the housing and automobile industry with much success… “Sir, try out your dream home (or car) for a couple of weeks and let me know what you think.” I have no doubt sales will quickly climb.

 

Unfortunately, until my bank account completes its multi-stage decompression stops I will have to make do with my trusty Subal and Canon 20D camera. Looking through the viewfinder on my Subal or the tiny LCD screen is like watching a movie on a 10 inch screen in an IMAX theatre. This cook is going to have to get used to cooking on an egg fryer instead of a wok, but thankfully the joy of cooking remains the same.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Image by Lazaro Ruda.

Laz Ruda

Guest Blog – Christine Kornylak

August 25th, 2010

 
Christine Kornylak recently took a Zen Underwater WA-100 and Olympus E-PL1 out to the Channel Islands. Here’s her report (external link):

The Wide View: Diving the Channel Islands with the Olympus E-PL1 Micro Four Thirds Camera

Looking up a five story kelp bed off of San Clemente Island

Looking up a five story kelp bed off of San Clemente Island

Backscatter in the Channel Islands

August 20th, 2010

 
No, not that kind of backscatter…. the kind that sells underwater photo gear including Nauticam housings. The guys from Backscatter Underwater Video and Photo recently invaded the Channel Islands of California to do some staff training and gear testing. This once a year trip allows the staff to get together to get some diving in, work on their skills, and yes, have some fun in the process. They invited me along to which I happily said yes, and after packing about 220 pounds of Nauticam, Zen Underwater, and cold water diving gear, I went to California.

BackscatterLogo2007_RGB_White

Did I mention that I brought my drysuit? Well, good thing I did as the water was quite cold, even by California standards. On two of my dives, I registered a nippy 47 degrees at the bottom. Visibility was not the greatest, so yes, there was some of the other kind of backscatter to deal with. Despite the less than perfect conditions, there were plenty of great subjects underwater; everyone did around 4 dives a day and enjoyed the trip very much.

Nudibranch from Santa Cruz Island. Shot with Canon 7D in Nauticam with Canon 60mm macro and Nauticam C60 port

Nudibranch from Santa Cruz Island. Shot with Canon 7D in Nauticam with Canon 60mm macro and Nauticam C60 port

The boat was the Peace, out of Ventura. The Peace is well suited to the Channel Islands, with a wide beam and plenty of room for all that gear needed for cold water diving… not to mention a huge amount of photo gear.

The Peace

The Peace

The new Sony NEX-5 came along for the trip for topside shooting. This is a cool little camera that packs an APS-C sized sensor and interchangeable lenses into a point and shoot size. It has a built-in panorama mode which entertained me for a long time.

Panorama shot with Sony NEX-5

Panorama shot with Sony NEX-5

I brought 3 complete Nauticam setups for the Backscatter guys to use… Canon 7D, Canon T2i and Nikon D300s. I also brought Nauticam ports to support some different lenses, plus a couple Zen Underwater 100mm mini fisheye domes. One of the Backscatter guys already owns his own Zen Underwater 230mm super dome, so that was in use as well. It was great to see how eager these guys were to try and get experience with the different Nauticam products.

Some of the photo gear

Some of the photo gear

One more comment about the Peace… the food is awesome! (Sorry, no pictures of the food).

Peace dive deck panorama with gear. Photo by Berkley White.

Peace dive deck panorama with gear. Photo by Berkley White.

Diving the Channel Islands is a unique experience, with some creatures and scenery you just don’t see anywhere else. From Purple Hydrocorals on Farnsworth Bank to the ubiquitous kelp forests to the myriads of nudibranchs on Santa Cruz, there is an amazing amount of life underwater here. This isn’t the first time these guys have been here and they know the best spots.

Horn Shark. Shot with Canon 7D Nauticam with Tokina 10-17mm fisheye behind a Zen Underwater 100mm mini fisheye dome

Horn Shark. Shot with Canon 7D Nauticam with Tokina 10-17mm fisheye behind a Zen Underwater 100mm mini fisheye dome



 
Shot with Canon 7D Nauticam with Canon 60mm EF-S.

Shot with Canon 7D Nauticam with Canon 60mm EF-S.



 
Nudibranch from Santa Cruz Island. Shot with Canon 7D in Nauticam with Canon 60mm macro and Nauticam C60 port

Nudibranch from Santa Cruz Island. Shot with Canon 7D in Nauticam with Canon 60mm macro and Nauticam C60 port



Backscatter Underwater Video and Photo has a beautiful showroom located in Monterrey, California (and one in Derry, NH). Besides being an authorized Nauticam dealer, they are authorized to perform service on Nauticam gear, plus can service just about anything else related to underwater photo/video gear. They have a large staff, all of whom are divers and photographers. Their extensive website is packed with Nauticam housings, ports, and accessories, plus gear from many other vendors. Visit the website here: Backscatter web site

The Backscatter Channel Islands Dive Team 2010. From top then left to right: Berkley White - Owner; Rusty Sanoian - Product Manager; Sean Boone - Web Sales; Rob Duncan - Sales; Mike Tamayo - Accounting / Sales; Craig Dietrich - Sales; Sterling Zumbrunn - Technical Support

The Backscatter Channel Islands Dive Team 2010. From top then left to right: Berkley White - Owner; Rusty Sanoian - Product Manager; Sean Boone - Web Sales; Rob Duncan - Sales; Mike Tamayo - Accounting / Sales; Craig Dietrich - Sales; Sterling Zumbrunn - Technical Support

Go Bug Eye!

August 10th, 2010
Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

You might have heard of the Inon “bug eye” lens, officially called the Inon Underwater Micro Semi-Fisheye Relay Lens UFL-MR130 EFS60. Nauticam initially supported this lens with our “Macro port C60 – MR 130″ for Canon EF-S 60mm. Now, for you Nikon shooters who were feeling left out, we’ve also added Nikon support with our “Macro port N60 – MR 130″. Note that this port requires the Nikkor AF-D 60mm macro lens, and will not work with the AF-S 60mm.

Nauticam NA-7D housing with 60 macro port and Inon UFL MR 130

Nauticam NA-7D housing with 60 macro port and Inon UFL MR 130



The Inon UFL MR 130 lens is a very unique lens. Some people call it a “bug eye” lens. (Others call it an endoscope. We’ll stick with bug eye.) It offers a perspective not found in another lens. Imagine yourself to be about 8 millimeters tall, and have fish eyes with a super wide field of view yet able to focus very close… that’s the perspective. This is not the easiest lens to shoot, but the new and interesting perspective it brings to the table make it very interesting.

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

The depth of field with lens is minuscule… so stopping the lens down as much as possible is important. With these sample shots, I generally was at f/22. To have any chance at getting a decent background exposure, I found I had to up my ISO up to the 320 or 640 range, and slow the shutter down as well. I found auto-focus to work sometimes; but mostly I resorted to manual focus.

Shot with Inon bugeye lens

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

One of the things that I liked about the lens was, given the long physical length, is it puts the diver farther back from the creature, meaning the creatures seemed less afraid.

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

Shot with Inon UFL-MR130

And since I was shooting this with a Canon 7D, 1080p HD video is available. I didn’t shoot much video with it my first weekend out with the lens, but here’s a short clip to give you an idea of some of the possibilities.

 

60:Second ScubaLab: Nauticam NA-550D

August 8th, 2010

 
Nauticam NA-550D housing featured on ScubaDiving.com:

 

Underwater DSLR Rig in a box. Or a bag.

July 22nd, 2010

 

This is a gear intensive sport, no doubt about it. Combine that with the fact that airlines are turning into absolute misers when it comes to baggage, and it’s no wonder that some people are abandoning DSLR’s for smaller cameras. That’s a shame, though, because giving up on DSLR means giving up on significantly better image quality, better lenses, shallow depth of field, fast focus…. ouch.

 

The Canon T2i with a Nauticam housing, along with a small dome like the Zen Underwater 100mm Fisheye dome and small strobes like the Inon S-2000 or the Sea&Sea YS-01 might be just the antidote for this. I wanted to see just how well a rig like like packed, so I assembled a representative set of gear and a couple of candidate pieces of luggage.

 

I started with a Pelican case, model 1510. This is a popular size Pelican because a) it is carry on legal and b) it has wheels and a handle.

The Pelican 1510 - Carry on size with wheels

The Pelican 1510 - Carry on size with wheels



DSLR rig in a box

DSLR rig in a box

A complete T2i setup

A complete T2i setup


The Pelican handled more that I thought it would. I was able to pack the housing, camera, viewfinder, 3 lenses, 2 ports, a port extension, zoom/focus gears, strobes, arms, clamps, and a focus light into the box. I had some room to spare so I added a battery charger for the camera, plus a spare battery. Still more room, so I added strobe batteries, 8 cell battery charger, charger for the focus light, spare o-rings, and o-ring grease.

 

Basically, a complete DSLR rig, with not one but three lenses, a macro port and a dome port, plus everything else needed, all in a carry-on sized box. With wheels.

 



 

Ok, so then I tried to see how much I could fit into a large camera backpack, but not too large; the kind that would fit under the seat in front of you. Maybe like the Tamron Evolution 8. My thinking was that I’d be able to fit the housing and the 18-55, with one port and two strobes, and that’s it. The backpack is pretty narrow, so I had to remove the handles from the housing, but once I did that, I was pleasantly surprised with how much I could fit in there (the same could be done for the Pelican, of course, which would let you put even more gear in there). I was actually able to get all of the same gear into the backpack, plus my laptop went nicely into the laptop pocket.

The Tamrac Evolution 8 Backpack

The Tamrac Evolution 8 Backpack



Nauticam NA-550D housing in the backpack

Nauticam NA-550D housing in the backpack



Fully loaded

Fully loaded



All of the gear from the backpack

All of the gear from the backpack

Yes, you read that right…. a complete DSLR rig plus a laptop… in a carry-on sized backpack.

 

Here’s a list of what I packed:

  • Nauticam NA-550D
  • Nauticam 180º viewfinder
  • Nauticam 0.66x standard viewfinder
  • Canon T2i body
  • Canon 18-55 lens
  • Canon 60mm macro lens
  • Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens
  • Nauticam Compact Port 15 + port base + covers
  • Zen Underwater 100mm fisheye dome port + cover
  • Nauticam 20mm extension ring + cover
  • 2x Inon S-2000 strobes
  • 2x Nauticam Fiber Optic cables
  • Light&Motion Sola 600 focus light
  • Sola 600 charger
  • Canon LC-E5 Battery charger for T2i
  • 2x LP-E5 battery for T2i
  • 8 LSD NiMH batteries
  • PowerEx 8 cell battery charger
  • 2x Nauticam M10 strobe mounting balls
  • 2x ULCS Inon adapters
  • 7x ULCS clamps
  • 2x ULCS 8″ arms
  • 2x ULCS 5″ arms
  • ULCS hotshoe adapter
  • ULCS adapter for Sola
  • Nauticam Zoom gear for Canon 18-55
  • Nauticam Zoom gear for Tokina 10-17
  • Nauticam Focus gear for Canon 60mm macro
  • 2x Nauticam lubricant
  • Spare housing o-ring
  • Spare port o-ring
  • Spare Inon o-rings
  • Inon o-ring grease
  • 15″ Apple Macbook Pro (in the backpack only)

All of that, in one carry-on sized bag. Now there’s no excuse to shoot with less than a DSLR.

Guest Blog Post: Bent Christensen

July 16th, 2010

 
Note from editor: This is a guest blog post send in by Nauticam customer Bent Christensen. We’re publishing it here, un-edited.


As many other underwater dslr-photographers, I have on a regular basis bought new gizmos in the hope that my pictures would get that last little bit better, getting me up in the ranks of the “how in the world did you do that?” shooter rather than “nice pics, I especially like the sharp one of the turtle” shooter. Of course, as most of you that has been shooting dslrs for some years, almost always in vain. Most of the stuff I have bought have been good to have (an extra strobe, new strobe arms, buoyancy arms, a new focus light, an extra port and so on), making shooting easier and more fun, but not giving any marked difference for the end result. However, with the recent purchase of the Nauticam viewfinder, I find that this piece of equipment certainly has the potential to increase the quality of my pictures.

Green Turtle with Remoras

Green Turtle with Remoras



But why should anyone buy an additional viewfinder to housing? After all, all housings already have a viewfinder, and the additional viewfinders are by no means cheap. I use Ikelite housings, which comes with a “Super-Eye magnifier” which I, to be honest, find neither super nor magnifying. I have been annoyed for years with this viewfinder, which not only shows only part of the camera viewfinder, but also is very hard to judge critical focusing with. Furthermore, being flush with the housing, in order to see at least some of the cameras viewfinder, the Ikelite viewfinder requires the mask to be crammed onto to the back of the housing, with all the disadvantages associated with that (leaking mask for one!).

So, another viewfinder could be the solution to all this and I researched the options. The Nauticam viewfinder had just been released and came out as one of the more reasonably priced (in the context of viewfinders that is!), got good, but few, reviews, and, which sealed the deal for me, is available with adapters for several different housings.

Nauticam Viewfinder on Ikelite housing

Nauticam Viewfinder on Ikelite housing


So what do you get for your cash? First of all, the Nauticam viewfinder is a very rugged piece of equipment. It seems to be very well built. It is heavy, which is quite nice, as it indicates that there is quite some glass in it. It also has a protruding diopter adjustment knob on its right side, allowing easy dioptre adjustment under water. The viewfinder comes with a well built adapter for the specific housing it is intended for and probably a manual as well.

Scorpionfish

Scorpionfish



The installation in an Ikelite housing is very straight forward. As I bought the viewfinder pretty early, the manual for Ikelite housings wasn´t yet available, so I had to install the viewfinder by using my technical talents. Sadly enough those talents are really limited! However, I actually succeeded in installing the viewfinder correctly without any major problems on my first try! I received the manual a week after my installation, and could confirm that I had done it correctly. The major part of the installation is to attach the adapter to the housing. First of all, the standard (“Super-eye magnifying”) viewfinder is removed, which is really easy. The Nauticam adapter is a sturdy tube, which with the help of a supplied tool is screwed into the threads where the standard viewfinder was positioned. The adapter tube is sealed with an o-ring to the back of the housing, essentially in the same way the standard viewfinder is sealed. Then an index ring is placed on the adapter tube and secured with a retaining ring. The index ring orients the viewfinder, and prevents the viewfinder from rotating freely. The viewfinder, which has a tube on the housing side of it, is then pressed into the adapter, where the viewfinder is sealed with two o-rings. Finally, the viewfinder is secured to the housing with a retaining o-ring on the inside of the housing back plate.

Cabbage coral and diver

Cabbage coral and diver



So does it work? The answer to that is a whooping YES! To say that the difference is like looking through a key hole compared to a window might be exaggerating somewhat. However, the difference between the standard Ikelite viewfinder and the Nauticam viewfinder is amazing! The Nauticam covers 100% of the picture, is far brighter, seems to be sharper, and it is possible to read the lcd-strip information at the bottom of the camera viewfinder. When it comes to critical composition of scenes, it is really wonderful to be able to see the corners of the frame. Also, doing macro, I can actually tell where the focus is before taking the picture. With supermacro, using the Subsee diopter, it is an even bigger deal to be able to exactly see where focus is. So in conclusion, I actually expect this piece of equipment to be able to assist me in getting at least some great shots in the near future.

Nauticam Viewfinder on Ikelite housing

Nauticam Viewfinder on Ikelite housing


Pros: Great image in viewfinder, bright, allows critical composition, covers 100% of the camera viewfinder, it is possible to read the lcd in the camera viewfinder, excellent viewfinder build quality, adaptable to different housings, reasonable pricing, easy installation, very easy to remove when travelling, easy diopter adjustment

Cons: heavy, housing cannot be left on its back, hard to leave in place when travelling, sometimes too easy diopter adjustment

Who am I: Bent Christensen, underwater photographer for the last seven years. Presently I use Canon 5DM2 in an Ikelite housing with miscellaneous gizmos attached to it. I have a PhD in ecology, and work as an associate professor in a university in Sweden, where I teach university level tropical ecology courses. I also teach live aboard courses in coral reef ecology. I do research on Cymothoa parasites on anemone fish and I also deliver stock footage to a photo agency. Furthermore, I give a number of public talks on tropical ecology and reef ecology. For all this I use my under water pictures, so high quality pictures are fundamental to me.

Getting wide – the Sigma 8-16

July 12th, 2010

 
For underwater photographers, the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye zoom lens is about the best thing since sliced bread. It’s extremely versatile, super wide, and its close focus allows for dramatic close-focus-wide-angle shooting. If I could only have one lens for underwater, it would be the 10-17. Sometimes, though, I don’t want that fisheye perspective, and want a super-wide rectilinear lens. When shooting people or sharks, for example, I just don’t like what the fisheye perspective does to them. You can reduce the fisheye distortion in post processing, but that isn’t very satisfying and loses some image data.

 
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Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

For cropped frame cameras like the Canon 7D or the Nikon D300s, the typical rectilinear wide angle zoom lenses people use underwater are the Canon 10-22, Nikon 12-24, Nikon 10-24 or 12-24, Tokina 11-16 or Sigma 10-20.

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 13mm

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 13mm

And then there is the new Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM Ultra Wide Zoom Lens. This is a wide lens, with a diagonal FOV (field of view) at 8mm of about 121º. For comparison, the Canon 10-22 FOV is 107º at 10mm. (Note, though, that the Tokina 10-17 diagonal FOV at 10mm is nearly a 180º fisheye view).

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

We got a hold of one of these lenses, so naturally I volunteered to jump into the water with it. I outfitted it to my Canon 7D, in a Nauticam NA-7D housing, and brought along 3 different sizes of extension rings. The dome I chose was the Zen Underwater 230mm superdome. Corner sharpness is certainly something to be considered with this wide lens, and the big 230mm dome is my best choice for getting decent corners. After trying the various Nauticam Locking Extension rings, I settled on the 60mm ring as being the best choice; no vignetting seen with this extension at any zoom setting, and corner sharpness turned out to be good. Quick Nauticam plug here – even with this big dome on, I felt confident jumping off of the boat holding this rig thanks to the Nauticam locking port system.

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

The Zen 230mm dome makes over/under shots much easier than with a smaller dome. The 8-16mm was a good lens choice for this shot taken at the Dry Tortugas – note how it keeps the lines of the old coaling dock straight. I think the 8-16mm lens and the Zen 230mm dome make a terrific combination for over/under shooting.

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

Shot with Sigma 8-16mm at 8mm

While I’m no lens tester, I did take the setup in the pool to get a couple of test shots. My limited testing indicated that with the Zen 230mm dome, corner sharpness was good to about f/7.1. I did notice some transverse chromatic aberration around the edges at all apertures. You can also see from this shot the relative lack of distortion, and that the straight lines look like straight lines.

Corner crop of above image

Corner crop of above image

Shooting T2i with the new NA-550D

June 28th, 2010

 
The first Nauticam NA-550D landed in our warehouse a few days ago – it didn’t take long before I managed to head to Key West and the Dry Tortugas for a quick dive trip. (So far, the oil from the gulf has not impacted the Dry Tortugas, but it is definitely a worry). I packed some lenses, a couple of Z-240 strobes, arms and also a 7D rig for some Nauticam family photos.

 
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Nauticam NA-550D and big brother NA-7D

Nauticam NA-550D and big brother NA-7D


Since many T2i’s are purchased with the 18-55 kit lens (EF-S 18-55mm IS), I tried this lens first, using a Nauticam Compact Port 15 with the 18-55 zoom gear. This is a versatile combination, 18mm on the wide side is wide enough to get some decent reef scenes, and it will allow a 1:2 reproduction ratio on the 55 end. This combo has a lot of range in a small package, and is very handy for fish portraits. Given the small size of the NA-550D housing and this port, this is a compelling setup for someone who wants to travel light.

Juvenile Blueheads shot with 18-55mm

Juvenile Blueheads shot with 18-55mm at 55mm

My biggest problem on this trip, aside from the weather being a little rough thanks to a passing tropical wave, was that everyone wanted to try the housing. I only managed to get to use it for about 2 dives. Using the 18-55, my friend who is new to underwater photography, managed to get some nice shots.

Shot with 18-55mm at 18mm

Shot with 18-55mm at 18mm

The new latches on the housing proved to be easy to use and very secure. To open, you press the small release button and move the lever in the opposite direction past a mechanical catch, making it virtually impossible to open inadvertently.

Shot with 18-55mm at 55mm

Shot with 18-55mm at 55mm

I had the camera’s autofocus set to the default setting, such that the autofocus is initiated upon a half press of the shutter release. The NA-550D has a unique new two stage shutter release lever. The increased tactile feel of the two stages allows more control over the half press with less accidental actuation. Though I am more used to a configuration where the autofocus is moved to a different button, I found the default half press autofocus to be easy to use with this housing.

Shot with 18-55mm at 39mm

Shot with 18-55mm at 39mm

On the second dive, I traded the 18-55 for a Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens plus zoom gear, combined with a Zen 100mm fisheye mini-dome plus Nauticam Locking Extension Ring 20. Trading out the lens is made easy by the new lens release on the NA-550D, and trading out the port is simple and secure thanks to the distinctive Nauticam port release mechanism. One thing I really liked was the lever to access the playback button, which made reviewing photos and video a breeze. I shot some in manual on this dive so I could try out the Av button lever. In what is apparently becoming a Nauticam tradition, I find this lever makes the camera easier to use inside the housing than by itself, i.e. instead of having to hold down the Av button and move the command dial at the same time, I just flipped the switch, then used the command dial to change the aperture, no need to hold anything down.

Shot with 10-17mm at 10mm

Shot with 10-17mm at 10mm

I also changed the camera to only autofocus when the * button is pressed. On the housing, the * button is the top button on the rocker button, and easily reached with my hands still on the handles. Since it is different than the 7D, it took a few tries to get used to the placement, but once I did it felt natural. I prefer this style of shooting, but for many people, the two stage shutter release will allow the default autofocus style to be the preferred method.

Shot with 10-17mm at 10mm

Shot with 10-17mm at 10mm

While we mostly concentrated on shooting stills this trip, I did shoot some natural light video with the T2i. This video is shot with manual exposure (using the ISO paddle lever to set ISO) and custom white balance, using Tokina 10-17. The video looks great at 1080p… I’ve uploaded it here to Vimeo, which is 720p and more compressed than I’d like, but not bad.

 


 
The NA-550D housings begin shipping June 30th.

NA-550D with 18-55mm in Compact Port 15

NA-550D with 18-55mm in Compact Port 15

Join us on Flickr, Vimeo and Facebook

June 16th, 2010

 
Join us on Vimeo and Flickr and show off your images and video taken with your Nauticam housing. We want to see your work! We want to see a photo of you with your rig too! For you Zen Underwater dome users, we’ve also made a special group for sharing Zen images. So start sharing!

Here are the links:

 


Nauticam on flickr



 


Zen Underwater on flickr



 







 



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